Buying a used instrument
A used student instrument from the right source is the best value in this whole category. From the wrong source it is a repair bill with a case.
By Stephen V. · Writes Reed & Rosin · last verified
The short answer
A used student instrument is excellent value when it comes from a shop that has serviced it, and risky from a private seller who cannot say when it was last played. Inspect for structural damage first, adjustment second, and cosmetics last: cosmetics are cheap and structure is not.
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Quick picks
| # | Product | Best for | Score | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() Cremona SV-175 Premier Student Outfit Solid spruce top, maple back and ebony fittings at student-outfit money. Ebony pegs and fingerboard are the specification that separates a workable student violin from a decoration. | The student violin a teacher will accept | 9.0/10 | $299.99View on Amazon #ad · price as of September 7, 2026 · how this is funded |
| 2 | ![]() Yamaha YCL-255 Student Clarinet The default school clarinet. An ABS resin body ignores humidity and cracking entirely, and the key work holds adjustment through the abuse a middle-school case takes. | The clarinet school programs expect | 9.4/10 | $785.00View on Amazon #ad · price as of September 7, 2026 · how this is funded |
| 3 | ![]() Yamaha FG800J A solid spruce top at a laminate-top price, which is the one spec that actually changes how a cheap guitar sounds as it ages. If an adult beginner asks for one recommendation and nothing else, this is it. | Adult beginners who want one guitar for years | 9.2/10 | $259.99View on Amazon #ad · price as of September 7, 2026 · how this is funded |
Scores are our own editorial fit rating from published specifications — the rubric is on our methodology page. They are not test results; we have not played these instruments.
The used market is where the value is, and it is also where the expensive mistakes are. The difference between the two is almost entirely the source, not the price. A used clarinet from a music shop that has repadded and adjusted it is a genuinely better instrument than a new one at the same money. The same clarinet from a garage sale, last played in 2009, is a bill.
Rank your sources before you rank your options
| Source | Typical premium | What you are buying |
|---|---|---|
| Music shop, serviced and warrantied | Highest | An instrument that plays today, plus someone accountable if it does not |
| Rental return from a rental program | High | An instrument the shop maintained on a schedule, priced against its own rental fleet |
| School program surplus sale | Low | Institutionally maintained but heavily used; usually genuine value |
| Private sale from a current player | Low | Depends entirely on the seller; ask what they play and where they get it serviced |
| Online marketplace, unknown seller | Lowest | A photograph. Budget for a full service on top of the price |
The premium a shop charges is roughly the cost of the service you would otherwise pay for separately, plus the value of not needing it. For a first instrument, that is usually a good trade.
What to check, by family
Brass — trumpet, trombone, baritone
- 1
Work every valve or the slide
Valves should drop under their own weight when the horn is tilted, and return smoothly. A sticking valve may only need cleaning and oil, or it may be a bent piston, and you cannot tell from outside. On a trombone, the slide should move its full length with one finger.
- 2
Pull every tuning slide
Every slide should move. A slide seized by corrosion is a workshop job, not a home fix, and on a cheap horn the repair can exceed the instrument's value.
- 3
Look down the leadpipe
Shine a light in. Red or green corrosion, or visible build-up, means a chemical clean at minimum. It is not fatal, but it is a cost.
- 4
Check dents against where they are
A dent in the bell flare is cosmetic. A dent in the leadpipe or a tuning slide affects how the instrument plays and is expensive to fix properly.
Woodwind — clarinet, saxophone, flute
- 1
Inspect the pads
Look at the leather or synthetic discs under each key. Torn, hardened, or discoloured pads mean a repad, and a full repad on a student instrument frequently costs more than the instrument is worth. This is the single most important check.
- 2
Test the seal
Close the keys and cover the ends of the joint, then apply gentle suction. It should hold. Air escaping means pads that are not seating, which is the same repad problem.
- 3
Check for cracks on a wooden body
Grenadilla clarinets and oboes crack, usually along the grain near the tone holes. A crack is repairable and it is never cheap. On a plastic or resin body this risk does not exist at all.
- 4
Ignore the mouthpiece entirely
You are replacing it regardless, and a used mouthpiece from an unknown player is not something to put in a child's mouth. Price the instrument as if it has none.
Strings — violin, viola, cello
- 1
Look along every seam and the top
Open seams are normal and cheap to reglue. A crack through the top, especially near the soundpost, is a serious repair and can exceed the value of a student instrument.
- 2
Check the soundpost is standing
Look through the f-hole. There should be a small wooden dowel standing upright inside, near the bridge. If it has fallen, do not tune the instrument up — take it to a shop.
- 3
Test whether the pegs turn and hold
Pegs that slip or seize are common on instruments that have been stored badly. It is a modest repair, but a violin that will not hold pitch is unusable until it is fixed.
- 4
Sight down the bow
A warped bow with a sideways twist is not worth repairing on a student outfit. Bows are the cheapest part to replace and the most commonly ruined by storage.
Guitar
- 1
Sight down the neck from the headstock
A slight forward bow is normal and adjustable. A twist along the neck's length is not adjustable and makes the guitar unplayable in some positions. Walk away from a twisted neck.
- 2
Check the string height at the 12th fret
High action is usually a setup issue and cheap to fix. Very high action combined with an already-flat bridge saddle can mean a neck reset, which on a budget guitar is not economic.
- 3
Look where the neck meets the body
Any gap or lifting at that joint is a serious structural problem. This is the guitar equivalent of a soundpost crack.
The rule that covers every instrument
Cosmetic damage is cheap and structural damage is not. Scratched lacquer, worn plating, a scuffed case and dull strings are all irrelevant to how an instrument plays and are excellent reasons to negotiate. Cracks, bent keys, seized slides, twisted necks and failing pads are the opposite. Price the cosmetics down and walk away from the structure.
The question that tells you the most
Ask the seller when it was last serviced and by whom. A seller who names a shop and a rough date is telling you the instrument has been looked after and probably plays. A seller who does not know is telling you to budget for a service, which is fine as long as you actually budget for it. A seller who says it does not need one is telling you they have not looked.
Second best question: ask them to play it, or to send a short video of it being played. An instrument nobody can make a sound on is an instrument with a problem, and it is remarkable how often that request ends a conversation.
The picks, in full
Every card below is written from the published specification and the manufacturer’s own documentation. We have not played these instruments — see how we work for exactly what that means and what we do instead.

Our top pick · The student violin a teacher will accept
Cremona SV-175 Premier Student Outfit
Solid spruce top, maple back and ebony fittings at student-outfit money. Ebony pegs and fingerboard are the specification that separates a workable student violin from a decoration.
What works
- Solid spruce top rather than laminate or painted plywood
- Ebony fingerboard and pegs — ebonized softwood warps and slips
- Sold as a complete outfit with case and bow
What to know
- Still needs a shop setup: bridge fitting and a proper string height are not guaranteed
- The included bow is serviceable rather than good
- Top
- Solid spruce
- Back and sides
- Maple
- Fittings
- Ebony
- Outfit
- Case and bow included
#ad · price as of September 7, 2026 · how this is funded
Specs read from the manufacturer or retailer listing on 2026-09-07. Our fit score: 9.0/10.

Pick 2 · The clarinet school programs expect
Yamaha YCL-255 Student Clarinet
The default school clarinet. An ABS resin body ignores humidity and cracking entirely, and the key work holds adjustment through the abuse a middle-school case takes.
What works
- ABS resin body will not crack the way grenadilla wood does in a dry classroom
- Adjustment holds through a school year of handling
- Best resale value of any student clarinet
What to know
- Resin does not develop the warmth of a wooden body
- The supplied mouthpiece is the first thing worth upgrading
- Key
- Bb
- Body
- ABS resin
- Keys
- Nickel-plated
- Bore
- Cylindrical, 14.95 mm
#ad · price as of September 7, 2026 · how this is funded
Specs read from the manufacturer or retailer listing on 2026-09-07. Our fit score: 9.4/10.

Pick 3 · Adult beginners who want one guitar for years
Yamaha FG800J
A solid spruce top at a laminate-top price, which is the one spec that actually changes how a cheap guitar sounds as it ages. If an adult beginner asks for one recommendation and nothing else, this is it.
What works
- Solid spruce top rather than laminate, so the tone opens up with playing time
- Full-size dreadnought body projects enough to be satisfying unamplified
- Yamaha's factory setup is consistently the most playable in this price band
What to know
- Full dreadnought is too big for most players under about 12
- Ships with no case, tuner or strap — budget for those separately
- Body
- Dreadnought, full size
- Top
- Solid spruce
- Back and sides
- Nato / okoume
- Scale length
- 25 in (approx. 634 mm)
- Included accessories
- Not published
#ad · price as of September 7, 2026 · how this is funded
Specs read from the manufacturer or retailer listing on 2026-09-07. Our fit score: 9.2/10.
Questions people actually ask
Is it safe to buy a used instrument for a beginner?
From a music shop that has serviced it, yes, and it is often the best value available. From an unknown private seller it is a gamble: budget the cost of a full service on top of the purchase price, and if that total exceeds a new instrument, buy new.
What should I check on a used clarinet or saxophone?
The pads first, and everything else second. Torn or hardened pads mean a repad, and a full repad on a student instrument frequently costs more than the instrument is worth. Close the keys and apply gentle suction to the joint — it should hold.
How much should I pay for a used student instrument?
There is no fixed percentage, because condition dominates. The useful framing is total cost: purchase price plus whatever service it needs. If that total lands close to a new instrument, buy new and get the warranty.
Are school surplus instruments a good buy?
Often yes. They have been maintained on an institutional schedule, which is more than most private instruments get, and they are priced to clear. Expect heavy cosmetic wear and check the pads or valves as you would with any used instrument.